This seems to be another area that causes great discussions (or arguments !) amongst breeders hence I felt it warranted a separate post. Like many other whelping lore, both arguments for and against are very subjective and not confirmed by research.
In the wild, the purpose of the afterbirths was to provide enough food and energy for a few days before she could go hunting again. Obviously in the modern home this is not required but a number of breeders claim other benefits such as
- More copious milk production
- Earlier uterine emptying
- Subsequent pups to be delivered faster and with fewer complications
All sounds very positive so what are the arguments against ? As far as I have heard/read it is limited to
- Bitch vomiting back some of the placenta
- Copious, fluid, dark bowel movements
This is no doubt because of the richness of the placenta. They are blood filled and very nutritious and consuming too many is probably an overload for some.
So in my opinion the summary is
- Possible benefits, while not proved by any scientific research, are steadfastly held to by some breeders and all sound very positive and exactly what you would want for the bitch
- Possible problems are vomiting and messy bowel movements
My philosophy throughout the whole process is to interfere as little as possible. Possible mess seems to be far outweighed by the possible gains in my opinion. Once again, Dan Rice is his book "The complete book of dog breeding" sums it up well
"I would far rather see a bitch allowed to eat all placental tissues than to see someone interfere with her normal maternal processes by grasping the placentas from her reach and taking them from her. Moderation is the key. If the whelping process allows you to retrieve and destroy some of the placentas, you will see less of the undesirable side effects. But use discretion, don't interfere ! Let the dam's natural, maternal instincts prevail"
Well said Dan :)
Friday, 14 May 2010
Stage 3 labour
Stage 3 labour is the expulsion of the afterbirth (placenta). It may not arrive until shortly before the next pup is born. Make a note if it's not expelled with the pup and observe if expelled later on.
The bitch will relax a little and spend some time cleaning and nursing the puppy. It is important that the puppies are fed by the bitch as soon as possible after the birth so they get maximum benefit from the colostrum, the first milk. Although colostrum may be present in the teats for a few days, puppies can only utilise it properly for a limited time, perhaps as little as 12 - 36 hours after whelping. The colostrum contains antibodies to all the diseases that the bitch has encountered in her life as well as those she has been vaccinated against.
After a variable time (10 min to 2 hours), stage 2 labour will begin for the next pup. You should not allow more than 2 hours in between delivery before contacting vet
The bitch will relax a little and spend some time cleaning and nursing the puppy. It is important that the puppies are fed by the bitch as soon as possible after the birth so they get maximum benefit from the colostrum, the first milk. Although colostrum may be present in the teats for a few days, puppies can only utilise it properly for a limited time, perhaps as little as 12 - 36 hours after whelping. The colostrum contains antibodies to all the diseases that the bitch has encountered in her life as well as those she has been vaccinated against.
After a variable time (10 min to 2 hours), stage 2 labour will begin for the next pup. You should not allow more than 2 hours in between delivery before contacting vet
Signs of Stage 2 labour
These are my notes made on Stage 2 labour
- Firstly, it's important to note the time when this starts, so as to know when to call for help
- Stage 2 labour begins when visible abdominal straining begins
- A moderate quantity of clear, straw or light pink coloured fluid leaks from birth canal
- The bitch must not be allowed to strain for more than 3-4 hours without having a vet investigate - call after 2 hours and warn vet
- Second and subsequent puppies should come with no more than 1 hour of straining - if not, call vet
- If the puppy is visible and applying gentle traction does not produce the puppy within 10 minutes, call the vet
- Puppies will often appear in pairs (one from each uterine horn)
- The sac membrane around the puppies do not always rupture at birth. If born with the sac intact, observe the bitch very closely. She should tear open the sac and lick the puppy vigorously, rolling the pup over and over, cleaning the puppy and chewing the cord
- If the bitch fails to break the sac then help her. Tear it open with your fingers and clear the pups nose and mouth
- If necessary, also use your fingers to ease the blood within the cord back down to the puppy and shred the cord. Rub the puppy vigorously in a towel before handing it back to the bitch. The key here, as is with the whole process, is to interfere as little as possible, only when absolutely needed and then once the safety of the puppy has been ensured, let the bitch take over
- 40% of puppies are born hind legs first, this is not a problem and is not a breech delivery (that is when the tail comes out first and the hind legs are tucked back inside). Most breech puppies will be delivered fine by the bitch but you need to observe closely and call the vet if the pup is not coming out after 10 minutes. Never apply traction to the puppies tail in a breech delivery
- Firstly, it's important to note the time when this starts, so as to know when to call for help
- Stage 2 labour begins when visible abdominal straining begins
- A moderate quantity of clear, straw or light pink coloured fluid leaks from birth canal
- The bitch must not be allowed to strain for more than 3-4 hours without having a vet investigate - call after 2 hours and warn vet
- Second and subsequent puppies should come with no more than 1 hour of straining - if not, call vet
- If the puppy is visible and applying gentle traction does not produce the puppy within 10 minutes, call the vet
- Puppies will often appear in pairs (one from each uterine horn)
- The sac membrane around the puppies do not always rupture at birth. If born with the sac intact, observe the bitch very closely. She should tear open the sac and lick the puppy vigorously, rolling the pup over and over, cleaning the puppy and chewing the cord
- If the bitch fails to break the sac then help her. Tear it open with your fingers and clear the pups nose and mouth
- If necessary, also use your fingers to ease the blood within the cord back down to the puppy and shred the cord. Rub the puppy vigorously in a towel before handing it back to the bitch. The key here, as is with the whole process, is to interfere as little as possible, only when absolutely needed and then once the safety of the puppy has been ensured, let the bitch take over
- 40% of puppies are born hind legs first, this is not a problem and is not a breech delivery (that is when the tail comes out first and the hind legs are tucked back inside). Most breech puppies will be delivered fine by the bitch but you need to observe closely and call the vet if the pup is not coming out after 10 minutes. Never apply traction to the puppies tail in a breech delivery
No action yet
No action during the night - Jess seemed to calm down a little. Took her temperature this morning - still the same, hovering close to 100 F. So, will we see puppies today or tomorrow ?!
Forgot earlier to add extra costs : £33 for puppy gate, £18 for a bottle of Dopram V (respiratory stimulant - here's hoping we don't need it !) - total now over the £1500 mark
Forgot earlier to add extra costs : £33 for puppy gate, £18 for a bottle of Dopram V (respiratory stimulant - here's hoping we don't need it !) - total now over the £1500 mark
Thursday, 13 May 2010
First signs perhaps .... ?
Jess seems very restless this evening, and very clingy. Getting up and down a lot, obviously finding it hard to get comfortable and I noticed for the first time a stringy, mucus discharge from her vulva while out walking her this evening. Been taking her temperature 3 times a day and it's been pretty constant at 100.0 F, last reading at 10pm was 99.7 F so no drastic drop. While I realise there are a number of indicators to look for, all the books also mention that for some, the first sign of whelping is a pup appearing so I'm not waiting until all the boxes are ticked before expecting whelping to start.
Don't believe it will be tonight but I've got everything ready just in case and I'm sleeping downstairs with her ......
Don't believe it will be tonight but I've got everything ready just in case and I'm sleeping downstairs with her ......
Wednesday, 12 May 2010
Signs of Stage 1 labour
Stage 1 labour seems to be quite variable. On average it lasts between 6 and 12 hours but can be as long as 18 hours. For some though, the first signs that whelping has started is the arrival of the first pup !
Common signs that can be visible during stage 1 labour are :
- restlessness and nervousness
- shivering and panting
- scratching and digging at the floor
- repeated lying down and getting up
- frequent licking of the vulva
- a clear, odourless, stringy vaginal discharge (like raw egg white) : this is the mucus plug that filled the cervix during pregnancy
It's now Wednesday night, 60-61 days past ovulation so I'm expecting it all to start very soon :) We've been taking her temperature since last night and it's been fairly constant at around 100 F. I need to finish assembling the whelping gear tomorrow, the list is
- box with bedding and hot water bottles should any of the puppies need to be temporarily removed from mum
- surgical gloves
- towels
- newspapers (lots of them)
- dettol wipes
- dopram v
- kitchen paper and gauze pads
- vet details !
- torch with fresh batteries
- glucose and water drink (for the dog !)
- bin liners for putting all the soiled paper in between puppies
and of course
- digital camera batteries charged
- video camera battery charged
Common signs that can be visible during stage 1 labour are :
- restlessness and nervousness
- shivering and panting
- scratching and digging at the floor
- repeated lying down and getting up
- frequent licking of the vulva
- a clear, odourless, stringy vaginal discharge (like raw egg white) : this is the mucus plug that filled the cervix during pregnancy
It's now Wednesday night, 60-61 days past ovulation so I'm expecting it all to start very soon :) We've been taking her temperature since last night and it's been fairly constant at around 100 F. I need to finish assembling the whelping gear tomorrow, the list is
- box with bedding and hot water bottles should any of the puppies need to be temporarily removed from mum
- surgical gloves
- towels
- newspapers (lots of them)
- dettol wipes
- dopram v
- kitchen paper and gauze pads
- vet details !
- torch with fresh batteries
- glucose and water drink (for the dog !)
- bin liners for putting all the soiled paper in between puppies
and of course
- digital camera batteries charged
- video camera battery charged
Saturday, 8 May 2010
Signs that whelping is imminent
As mentioned in the earlier post, one of the most reliable indicators is the bitch's body temperature. The temperature will drop from a normal 101.5 F (38.6 C) to less than 100 F (37.7 C), often as low as 98 F (36.6 C). This happens about 12 to 24 hours prior to Stage 2 labour begins.
Another sure sign that it's all about to kick off is the presence of a green vaginal discharge. It is the result of early uterine placental detachment. This fluid can be intermittently observed until several days or a week after whelping.
Another sure sign that it's all about to kick off is the presence of a green vaginal discharge. It is the result of early uterine placental detachment. This fluid can be intermittently observed until several days or a week after whelping.
Signs whelping is getting near
Several days before whelping you can notice (although each bitch is different)
- Appetite gradually diminishes (yeah right, surely this is not going to happen, at any rate, Jess would be happy to consume an entire cow at the moment :)
- Bitch becomes restless and sedentary
- Stomach muscles relax and abdomen becomes more pendulous and distended
- Mammary glands enlarge
At this stage it's advised to start taking the bitch's temperature as this is one of the most predictable, nearly constant indicator that whelping is imminent (see next post). The temperature should be taken three times a day (at the same time each day) and the results recorded. It is of little use to only take a couple of random measurements. Got a digital thermometer but not so sure Jess is going to be very receptive of the method of obtaining the temperature (neither am I for that !)
Not long now !
Estimated whelping day is one week from today ! Over the last week I've been doing more reading and note taking on the actual birthing process - mainly so I know what's normal and what's not. I've found a really good book "The Complete Book of Dog Breeding" by Dan Rice (see links section for shortcut to amazon). I realy like the author's approach to the process - minimal intervention !
The Whelping chapter starts with the author saying "I don't subscribe to the concept and practice of taking over the dam's responsibilities. I believe it reduces natural, instinctive canine maternal behaviour.......our help should be reserved for those times when a puppy or the dam is at risk". Well said Dan :)
The following chapter covers difficult births (Dystocia) and once again ends with a great summary that I've decided will be my mantra through the whelping process
"Problems are often created by overzealous or radical actions. It is important not to offer assistance until you are sure it is needed. Once a decision to intercede is made, your assistance should be as quick and efficient as possible. Have a good idea of what you are going to do, do it, and get back into the audience. Use common sense and moderation."
Great advice I believe. I used this book and the "Breeding a litter" by J.M Evans (co-author of Book of the Bitch) to compile a summary of each stage of the labour and what constitutes the need to get involved. I'll type up my notes over the next few posts.
Costs since last post : Thermometers (one for the room and one for Jess) £12, Picket fencing for the garden (not going to be needing this for a few weeks but Argos had a special :) £20, Vet bedding (a monster roll 1.5m x 5m of basic vet bedding) £33
Eight people on the waiting list now so with our pup, that's nine accounted for - lets hope Jess has enough to give everyone what they're looking for !
The Whelping chapter starts with the author saying "I don't subscribe to the concept and practice of taking over the dam's responsibilities. I believe it reduces natural, instinctive canine maternal behaviour.......our help should be reserved for those times when a puppy or the dam is at risk". Well said Dan :)
The following chapter covers difficult births (Dystocia) and once again ends with a great summary that I've decided will be my mantra through the whelping process
"Problems are often created by overzealous or radical actions. It is important not to offer assistance until you are sure it is needed. Once a decision to intercede is made, your assistance should be as quick and efficient as possible. Have a good idea of what you are going to do, do it, and get back into the audience. Use common sense and moderation."
Great advice I believe. I used this book and the "Breeding a litter" by J.M Evans (co-author of Book of the Bitch) to compile a summary of each stage of the labour and what constitutes the need to get involved. I'll type up my notes over the next few posts.
Costs since last post : Thermometers (one for the room and one for Jess) £12, Picket fencing for the garden (not going to be needing this for a few weeks but Argos had a special :) £20, Vet bedding (a monster roll 1.5m x 5m of basic vet bedding) £33
Eight people on the waiting list now so with our pup, that's nine accounted for - lets hope Jess has enough to give everyone what they're looking for !
Wednesday, 5 May 2010
New photos
I've added some more photos of Jess at 5, 6 and 7 weeks pregnant - see the photos link. Still waiting to be able to feel/see puppies moving but no luck yet :( Got to sort out final list for whelping requirements in next couple of days. Borrowed a whelping box from a friend which has saved some money (they can be very expensive !). Last night we turned our downstairs area upside down, rearranging everything to create a quiet, separate area where Jess and the pups will spend the next 2 months. Feeling comfortable about my readiness for the whole birthing process now and just can't wait for it to start (although I'm sure Jess is not so keen !)
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